But it'd been a solid six months since we'd backpacked by ourselves, and Steph's brand-new packraft was just begging for a test-run. So we snagged a Canyonlands permit and prepared ourselves for a classic "triangle trip" - hike down to the river, paddle a a section, and then hike up a different trail back to the car.
We parked our car on Saturday morning at a little-used trailhead that isn't even afforded the dignity of a proper parking lot. We stuck our thumbs out, and in short order, caught a ride a couple miles down the road to our starting trailhead. By time we hit the trail, the sun was beating down, and the heat only grew more intense as we dropped in elevation. We descended a steep series of stair-steps before reaching a wash bottom. There, we found occasional scraps of shade, but mainly broiled in the oppressive midday sun as we trudged toward the Green River.
Oh, the river. That sweet, sweet river. We immediately belly-flopped in a small lagoon, allowing the cool water to cool our core temperatures. We both laid there submerged for about ten minutes, pure bliss overcoming us. In all my years of backpacking, I've very rarely experienced such a sudden transformation in circumstances.
By and by, we inflated our boats and set off downstream. The heat proved much more manageable on the water, particularly because we took a mid-afternoon swim break and guzzled water continuously. It wasn't good water per se - the Green carries too much sediment for that - but it did the trick, as long as you didn't mind drinking brown water with an unmistakable dirt flavor.
And the scenery! Lovely green cottonwoods in full leaf lined the shore, and occasional plump cumulus clouds framed our photos. It's impossible to capture the scale and depth of such a scene with a camera. The river made a huge loop, nearly doubling back on itself as it meandered southward - and with it, our little boats.
We paddled for a couple hours, eventually pulling ashore on a convenient rock ramp. We stowed our packrafts and filled every water container we owned, in preparation for a long, dry walk across the shadeless White Rim formation. Thankfully, by this time in the evening, shadows had grown long, and the walk was actually quite pleasant. Before long, we made a simple camp under the stars and gulped a little supper before turning in for an all-too-brief night of sleep.
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| Photo: Steph Seitz |
We began hiking by headlamp the next morning, trying to beat the heat. God blessed us with a conveniently-placed cloud for the first part of the walk. Eventually, we left the White Rim formation and snaked our way up an increasingly-bouldery canyon. And then, the big climb. A giant slide of rubble between two huge rock towers marked our exit from the canyon. As we climbed up, we found an excellent, well-marked trail - an unexpected and much-appreciated surprise! While steep, we both found the climb far easier than expected. Atop the central plateau once more, we enjoyed some incredible views before meandering a toasty but easy mile back to the waiting car.
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| Photo: Steph Seitz |
This was my first packrafting trip of the year, and Steph's first packrafting trip ever. Though we spent barely 24 hours in the backcountry, the world of work and ringing phones receded deep into the background. An excellent, adventurous weekend. What more could we ask for?
